ART TEC - Guy Marsden
Product Design My Artwork Living Sustainably
Art Engineering Levitation Kit Solar Power Chevy Volt
About Me Blog Solar Heating Thermal Windows
Contact Twitter Solar Hot Water Solar Mower

home > canoe

Building a Sassafras 14 ft. stitched lapstrake canoe
Bookmark and Share

HOME 1. laying out
the planks
2. cutting
planks
3. gluing
planks
4. rabbeting
edges
5. stitching
seams
6. shaping
hull
7. filleting
stems
8. gluing
seams
9. removing
stitches
10. filling
holes
11. gluing
inwhales
12. gluing
outwhales
13. glassing
outside
14. glassing inside 15. glassing
keel
16. decks and
seat mounts
17. installing
seats
18. epoxy
coat
19. sanding 20. varnishing 21. finishing up 22. launching storage BILL OF
MATERIALS
This canoe was built from plans in the book "The Canoe Shop"

August 26, 2007
Installing thwart and seats

When I installed the inwhales I had to remove the spreader stick amidships.  Afterwards the hull was narrower by about 1", so when I went to install the thwart I re-inserted the spreader stick to force the hull out to it's design width.  Then I measured out the location of the thwart per the plans and drilled 1/4" holes for the bolts.   I went to the hardware store today and bought all bronze hardware for mounts.  I feel that it will look more attractive than stainless steel.

Here is the thwart from underneath before I tightened the nut.  The plans say to use a wood screw from the bottom, but the cover picture shows a carriage bolt, and that seems stronger to me.  The book also mentions that you can get a complete seat mounting kit from a marine supply place, but my local ACE hardware has a lot of marine hardware that made it easy to get the right parts.  I spent over $22.00 on this nice bronze hardware.
Next I lined up the seats in their intended locations and cut off the excess wood so they would fit inside the hull.  I took care to clamp them in place -- carefully measuring them so they were centered.  Then I drilled 1/4" holes for the bolts right on the glue line.  I had to go back and ream out the holes in both parts to get them to line up and eventually got all 4 bolts in place.  At this point I decided that 3" spacers would be needed, although the book suggests placing them 1/2" lower.  A lower placement will make for a less tippy boat, so I may go back and change my mind on this.
To make the spacers, I took some of the extra mahogany strip that I had left over and rounded it over on the router to make a dowel.
Then I drilled them out with a 9/32" drill on the lathe.  Here they are ready for installation.
Installing the spacers was a bit tricky getting them all lined up at the same time.  I torqued down the nuts with an adjustable crescent wrench so that the heads pulled in to the inwhales.

next >>


visits since 8/26/07
Hit Counter